The wine list is not your enemy.
Sure, there will be times when you feel out of your depth with
winemaker and regional names that simply don't ring a tasting bell and
superfluous information that confuses more than informs.
One well-known restaurant, for example, lists the DOC and DOCG status
of its Italian wines. This is possibly over-kill on its behalf.
Another arranges its Burgundies by village, which may be way too much
information for most of us.
A good list, like a good sommelier, should never intimidate, confuse
or fluster. A good wine list is there to serve. How does it do that? It
offers a range of wines by the glass at, most importantly, a range of
prices. These are often presented on the second page of the wine list,
after the beers, so don't dive madly into the list or you'll miss them.
Wines by the glass give the sommelier a showcase for his or her
skills, encapsulating in perhaps 10 or 20 wines what the rest of the
wine menu is all about. If there are many imported wines being served
by the glass or small producers dominate the listing, or it's heavy on
big, robust reds, that's probably what you'll see a lot of inside. Get
used to reading the signs. Also, this is where you'll see some of the
greatest innovations in wine service in the last five years.
Many wine bars and good restaurants now offer a wine flight, a
selection of two, three or four wines served together, sometimes on a
tasting mat, and covering a theme. The theme could be New Zealand pinot
noir or maybe even New Zealand versus Aussie pinot or Mornington
Peninsula chardonnays or hey, maybe 2005 Burgundies and the wines won't
be full glasses but 'tastes.'
If you're just getting into wine, wine flights offer a terrific wine
education.
The other great innovation has been the range of wine 'serves' now
offered by some restaurants. Increasingly, lists will not only offer
wine by the glass, half bottle or bottle but also by the 40ml or 60ml
serve and carafe (250ml). The opportunity is there is taste a few
different wines over lunch and dinner and still be right to drive.
Now, you wouldn't have known that if you had just ordered the same
old,, same old without looking at the list would you?
Once past the introductory wines by the glass, lists are usually
arranged under sub-headings according to grape variety, wine style or
origin. Remember, from here on in wines will be served mainly by the
750ml bottle. There might, or might not, be a separate section offering
half bottles or the odd magnum.
Size it up quickly, and you won't get flustered.
If the wines are listed by grape variety, go with your instincts and
head straight to something you know you will be comfortable with, a
sauvignon blanc or a shiraz. If it's by country, stick with what you
know. Some people love the freedom of a big wine list but others shut
down with too much choice. Give yourself time to feel comfortable
around wine menus before you go exploring into the great unknown. And
always feel free to ask the sommelier for advice. A good sommelier will
ask you about your taste in wines and suggest a range of styles at a
range of prices.
Under each menu sub-heading, wines can be arranged either
alphabetically or by vintage (from youngest to oldest), or price.
Once you understand the layout of the menu and, remember, each wine
menu will be subtly different, it should then be in your control.
Seize the list and enjoy!
Handy Hint: Mark-ups can be difficult to calculate. Are you getting
good value? A simple rule is to go to a wine that you already know well
and note the price being asked for it. If the listed price is double
the normal retail price, you're in the usual 100 per cent mark up
ballpark - more than that and prices could be on the high side. If
that's the case, it should be reflected in attentive sommelier service
and quality glasses.

