Mike Aylward sold Kooyong in 2004 and started Ocean Eight which is on one of the cool sites on Mornington Peninsula - Red Hill, and on clay. He couldn't get Pinot Noir ripe enough, so he converted the site to Pinot Gris. Early picked (he doesn't add acid), low crop (3 t/acre). Fermented in old French oak barriques, gross lees, no bâtonnage but when it's moved to tank it goes with the solids.

"An extraordinarily complex Pinot Gris that carries piercing (but delicious) candy-lime acidity through the wisteria and lilac floral character. Pears dipped in violet syrup. So unusual thanks to a bitterness and spiciness that is so tangible it's almost textural. It reminds me a little bit of white vermouth, in fact. Angelica and orris root. Galangal. Ginger powder on the finish. This is actually rather gorgeous. It could well age longer than I've indicated."
17.5 points, Tamlyn Currin - jancisrobinson.com